I recently upgraded to a combo fish finder GPS unit. I was using a suction cup to hold the transducer to the side of the W but I noticed it would create drag and occasionally fall off. I tried several different methods to mount it in the inside of the W and shoot it through the hull, not so successfully. Again sometimes the simplest method works the best. I wish I would have tried this first. On YouTube tube I noticed a installation using duct seal. I purchased 1lb. at under $3.
Simply form a well at the bottom, lay transducer flat to surface , pinch some of the duct seal over it to hold in place. When you start kayaking simply put a slight amount of water in the well you formed to cover bottom of the transducer and start enjoying drag free readings. This duct seal sticks great, is waterproof, remains soft, and is portable. If you want to move it to another W simply peel off and reset it.
In my never ending quest to simplify and diversify using my Wavewalk kayak, I just added a cable anchoring system.
I first assembled the pulley arrangement as per Jeff McGovern’s video in the rigging section of the W website (which had both the top and bottom sections of the cord at the pulleys spaced outside the carrying handles), but experienced problems with the cord coming off the pulley when moved forward or backward. So I repositioned the pulleys as shown so that the top cord passes to the inside of the carrying handle while the bottom cord passes to its outside.
This seems to work OK but I’ll give it a good test over the next week when the water around here clears after Debbie did her thing. If a problem persists, I’ll replace the plastic pulleys with the small metal ones that have built in shields to keep the cord from slipping off.
By doubling up on the anchor line as shown I can let out about 10 feet (which works well 90% of the time on the flats here), but can also easily convert it into a single 20 foot line when needed.
Of course, I also still have the option of my 6-foot metal clip fish stringer to anchor while fishing in a foot or two of water using the ropes installed through holes drilled in the top rim of the W.
Hopefully, I’ll get out later this week after the water clears. It was chocolate brown and full of grass and weeds when I checked it out over the weekend.
People always have to ask about the W fishing kayak… and I tell them to get one. I now have rigged a Minn Kota electric trolling motor that works great for positioning an runs to a spot or back to dock.
“This seat sits a little higher, and it’s much more comfortable than the rigid seat I had added before.”
Great toolbox for convenient storage of Ray’s fishing tackle
Having seen some of the elaborate modifications W fishing kayak owners employ to attach paddles and other gizmos to their W’s, I thought I’d share a really easy, low-cost, no-weight method that I use.
When I first got my W’s, I drilled holes on each corner of the cockpit rim, primarily so that I could drain water out of the interior when turned upside down after washing down. Then I attached short pieces of waterproof rope thru the holes, knotting the bottom of each end to secure them(large flexible rubber washers can be installed about the knots to ensure that they don’t come thru the holes, but really aren’t needed). Finally, I attached 8-inch cable ties to the ropes or to the metal eyelets on the W to create carrying loops. You can see how I carry my Stick-it anchoring rod (stake out pole) on these devices.
Different sizes of metal clips can also be installed on the ropes to handle a paddle. By having holes and ropes on each corner of the rim, I can also attach an anchor to each, thereby eliminating the need for a pulley system (this works best if you can get by with just one length of anchor rope like you can fishing the shallow Florida flats).
I finally finished that paddle I’ve been building forever, and have paddled it a bit. It’s working out quite well for the W kayak.
I laminated the shaft out of one layer of poplar in the center for stiffness, and a layer of cedar on each side.
The blade is a lamination of two different colored cedars along with a maple tip to take a bit more abuse.
The blades have fiberglass cloth epoxied over both surfaces, and the shaft is finished in Tung oil (China wood oil) over the bare wood.
I also included a ferule for the shaft so I can break it down, as well as feather the blades left or right.
The paddle is nice and light, and really moves the boat along well. I’m liking it a lot so far.
I’d like to build one with carbon fiber paddles at some point, but who knows how many years that would take a the rate I put this one together.
Kevin is a fly fisherman from Florida who fishes mostly standing up in his W kayak. He paddles and poles his fishing kayak.